As some of you may know, a hurricane is due to hit the Eastern Seaboard of the U.S. sometime this morning. I m giving a speech Tuesday evening at 7:00 pm in Minneapolis, Minnesota so Friday night, Jose suggested I jump on a train to make sure I actually got there in time, as all of New York s public transit was being shut down, and flights were sure to be canceled. By Sunday evening as I was almost at my destination on Amtrak the wait time to speak to a customer service hertz car rental rep for Delta airlines was between seven and ten hours
I left from Croton-Harmon, the Amtrak station about 15 minutes hertz car rental drive north of our home, to get to Albany, a two-hour journey, where I changed trains for the 15 hour trip to Chicago. I initially boarded the Ethan Allen Express, named for a Vermont hero.
The Hudson Valley, hertz car rental where I begin this trip, is one of the prettiest places in the United States, its trees now a blast of red, yellow, orange, brown and crimson all likely to disappear after the hurricane blows through this week. The train tracks hug the eastern shore of the Hudson River, speeding (a relative word crawling, compared to a TGV ) past 18th. century towns and landmarks like West Point, the military academy. We passed Our Lady of Restoration Chapel, built in 1840 facing the river, where I was married (the first time) in May 1992.
The car is filled with students. A young girl is busy rolling cigarettes on her notebook, carefully hertz car rental adding filters. The girl behind her is knitting a gray scarf. Two young men behind me discuss their friends.
The train for Chicago, the Lake Shore Limited, leaves Albany at 7:05 p.m. and I settle into my aisle seat, a large woman in the window seat whose bum will press up against mine (and vice versa) hertz car rental for the next 15 hours, even though we don t speak. The train is packed, and I can hear many people saying they, too, are fleeing Hurricane Sandy and whatever havoc it might wreak.
I sit in the lounge car, now that it s dark, and watch a DVD on my laptop, Frozen River , an excellent 2008 feature film about two desperately poor women who smuggle illegal immigrants in their car trunk across the St. Lawrence between the U.S. and Canada. It s an apt choice because at Syracuse, two hours north of Albany (and 1.5 hours south of the Canadian border) immigration officials climb aboard and check some people s identification. I overhear them say they are removing someone with all their luggage.
In the lounge car, a bearded young Aussie in a black hoodie is yammering on to a pretty hertz car rental young Hispanic girl who, with great pride, tells him she passed hertz car rental an employer s drug test by using her mother s urine.
We all sleep in whatever position we can manage within our seats, but no one bothers to pull the dark blue curtains so the brilliant orange lights of the passing landscape hertz car rental keep flickering through the glass. My soft challis scarf makes a perfect eye-shade hertz car rental wrapped around my head and my wool cape is long enough to make a warm blanket and small pillow.
The train crosses northern hertz car rental New York, a narrow sliver of Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana and into Illinois. A man got on in Albany struggling to carry a huge ice chest filled with food, as well as his rolling suitcase, black fabric covered with pink flamingos, so full he cannot zip it closed. He looks poor and scrawny and tired, like many of the passengers. This is the America that will vote in a week for their new President.
I sip my tea and eat my pain au chocolat that Jose packed for me, and watch the sun gilding the shorn cornfields of Indiana, a vegetative high and tight . It seeps across the pick-up trucks and barns and silos and quiet farmhouses. Cows and horses stand in their paddocks, waiting for the day to begin.
I have a four hour layover, from 9:45 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. until my train leaves for Minneapolis, (its final destination is Seattle). I buy a locker (using a scanner that takes my fingerprint! for $12) and stuff my things into it. I buy my three usual weekend newspapers, The Wall Street Journal, New York Times and Financial Times, and head out into the sunshine.
I was in Chicago in November 2011 for the first time, so I know where I am and where to go, which I consider such a luxury feeling at home in a place far away. I head toward Lake Michigan to find a spot for breakfast, to settle in and read my newspapers.
But first, I want to say hello to my history, and head a few blocks over to State Street, to this white tower , built in 1912, developed by my great grandfather Louis M. Stumer. The architects, Holabird and Roche, did many of the city s grandest buildings. I love having a personal connection to this great city and a building that still stands at its heart.
hertz car rental I board the Empire Builder, a two-storey train I last took from here in August hertz car rental 2002, (heading to Vancouver, Canada to see my mother through brain surgery) that goes all the way west through another half-dozen enormous states, to Seattle, where its final miles of track are mere feet from the Pacific Ocean. (I was then in Dayton, Ohio researching my first book, about women and guns, when the surgeon told me to get there as fast as I could. Last-minute airfares are so costly, I went by bus and train.)
This time I m seated beside a woman who is a retired archeologist, whose late husband was an astronomer whose experiments rode inside two space missions. She did work in Michoacan, a state in Mexico I ve also visited and knows Santa Fe, NM well, where my husband was born, so we have lots to discuss.
But I soon withdraw into music on my laptop and an empty two-chair spot, to sleep as much as I can. I listen to Briton John Renbourn s acoustic guitar and Canadian singer Sarah McLachlan, gentle, meditative both a perfect soundtrack as the sun sets over the fields of Wisconsin. We stand still waiting, hertz car rental every time for a freight train ahead of us as the fading light paints a stand of white birch trees to our right a soft pink.
The train rattles hertz car rental along, through towns like Red Wing, Minnesota and Lacrosse, Wisconsin. Here s a photo of the station at Columbia, Wisconsin; a few minutes later a small parade hertz car rental of kids came by in their Hallowe en costumes.
As I walk the car s narrow aisle, I see a group of women knitting the most extraordinary things I ve ever seen. Are those feathers ? I ask one. Yup. It s going to be a cowl, she says, showing me creamy wool with gleaming feathers sticking hertz car rental out of it. This ain t your grandma s knitting!
I get to talking to two of the women 38 of them belong to a passionate Minneapolis group that s just gone to Chicago for a three-day hertz car rental knitting conference. Their fingers are all flying: an orange sweater, a pale pink sock, a black hat. One offers to make me a muffler, complete with feathers, if I pay for the materials. Yay!
One woman lived for years in Pakistan, and her friend has been to Afghanistan and Thailand and Pakistan. People are amazing. You never know who s sitting beside you or behind you or in front of you until you find out.
We shuffle back in and climb the narrow hertz car rental stairs, as this train has two levels, including my favorite the observation car whose individual seats face outwards. When I did this trip in 2002, and came all the way from Seattle back to NY, it was one of the best experiences of my life .
You really can have no idea how beautiful the U.S. until it has flashed past you for days and nights on end, mile after mile after mile: farms and fields and rivers and cities and ducks on still ponds and flying geese and abandoned factories and slick college campuses and huge mansions atop hills
We are late, hardly unusual hertz car rental for Amtrak. Americans don t like the train much, (or, to be correct the wealthy and powerful lobbyists for the auto and airline industry do not), so the system and its cars is slow, outdated and inefficient.
A man with two enormous incisions, with fresh black thread sticking out of his stitches, his right hand swollen like a balloon, clutches his small, trembling reddish dog against his enormous hertz car rental stomach. She doesn t like stairs, he tells us.
You really can have no idea how beautiful the U.S. until it has flashed past you for days and nights on end, mile after mile after mile: farms and fields and rivers and cities and ducks on still ponds and flying hertz car rental geese and abandoned factories and slick college campuses and huge mansions atop hills…
This was really, really beautiful. Makes me homesick for the years I lived beneath the big sky of east central Illinois. Thank you for your blog. Your writing is deep, thoughtful and well-constructed. It s also a wonderful contrast hertz car rental to so much of the air-filled chatter available online.
I m so glad you enjoyed hertz car rental this! I find these journeys, for all sorts of reasons, moving and emotional which is difficult to convey (well) in writing about it later. I was so very very happy on the train, seeing a world I barely know of as I live so much of my life in a citified bubble.
I guess we forget in this day and age that railway is still there. And useful. hertz car rental I recall doing central Amsterdam-Paris in four hours on one of the high-speed European trains pretty much the same time-wise, and certainly more convenient, hertz car rental than city centre to city centre via bus-Schiphol-jet-Orly-bus. The view, not so much those stop-banks and 300 km/h at ground level pretty much put paid to sight-seeing. For me the memorable part was being able to sit in the dining hertz car rental car and watch the blur out the window hertz car rental while a cup of coffee sat on the bar beside me with barely a ripple in the surface.
Which is sad. I so much prefer the train to flying, certainly for short-haul and even for longer journeys, if I have the time. I ve done the Paris-Amsterdam hertz car rental trip. It s crazy/great how quickly you can move around Europe. I so remember that still cup of coffee hertz car rental great image!
The storm is scary as hell: Jose is staying in NYC at a hotel across the street from his office; many people in our town have lost power and bits of NYC are truly horrific: a crane fell on 57th street; the front of an entire apartment buil
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