Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Last year, Martin and Sunil started up a newspaper called The Vladivostok Times, whose sole purpose
VLADIVOSTOK discount car and rentals and toronto -- There's something about the city of Vladivostok that doesn't add up. Disproportionally high consumer and real estate prices are balanced by some of the worst salaries in the country -- on average 8,000 rubles per month per person for the region. According to the newspaper Zolotoi discount car and rentals and toronto Rog, the cost of living in Primorsky Krai, the little region which holds Vladivostok, is one of the highest in all of Russia. Even the skewed official numbers say 25 percent of the population lives below the poverty line, and the poverty line isn't exactly livable.
Even so, Vladivostok's center discount car and rentals and toronto continues to develop with the emergence of cafes, hotels, Internet Centers and coffee shops, which is cool for certain foreigners, rich Russians and tourist companies. Behind this facade, however -- literally right behind many of these places -- are scenes closer to the truth. Scratch the shiny surface discount car and rentals and toronto and you'l find the alleys strewn with garbage and makeshift shitter pits that characterize the real Russia, discount car and rentals and toronto or at least the real Vladivostok. Dig deeper still and there're the dirt cheap Chinese and Korean laborers earning kopeks and hated by everybody.
Most Vladivostokians cannot afford the nouveau riche establishments. It's more expensive to dine out in Vladivostok than it is in parts of New York. There is no working class culture of diners and bars in Vlad, so the huddled masses discount car and rentals and toronto eat and drink either at home or on the streets at kiosks, while the suits and Tom Tuttle from Tacoma, Washington continue to tout how great the city has become, thanks to the new Mafia joints. Hey, as long as they're making money, discount car and rentals and toronto they'd praise Saddam.
Not me, though. I live among the people in this region, even if as an American I'm always given somewhat better treatment. I've taught English at two universities in the Russian Far East. Last year I was paid 6,600 rubles a month, in addition to a free obshezhitye room and visa expenses. Russian natives working the same job receive only 4,400 per month. discount car and rentals and toronto These salaries have been fixed since I first arrived in 2000.
Yet that doesn't stop the Rector of my university (Vladivostok State, VSUES) from publicly claiming that teacher salaries increase 30 percent every year. When I ask the dean of my department about this, she told me that the Rector mandates salary discount car and rentals and toronto raises but never actually doles out any money. He places the responsibility discount car and rentals and toronto on department deans to hike salaries discount car and rentals and toronto by magically producing money from outside sources (possibly bribes). Of course, this never happens.
This past year I supplemented my salary with an additional $300/month an American friend gave me to start up a magazine. Even then I had a hard time living, finding myself huffing lapsha or on the street gnawing on dubious shashlik with the locals. I admit the concept behind the magazine, which I called The Krai, was a bit naive. The idea was to try and set up a free and independent forum for Russians and Americans in the RFE to express their opinions. The Krai is still alive, but there's resistance every step of the way. Several months ago I was told through a friendly back channel that the police or FSB didn't like what I was writing. My source said that they said that I should be more careful because there are people out there -- in this backwater -- who wanted to do me harm. The reason? I'd just written a mildly critical piece suggesting the number discount car and rentals and toronto of people who died in a downtown office building fire was higher than the officially reported number. That's discount car and rentals and toronto all it takes out here in the sticks.
I won't really touch local politics. The racket is too secretive and there's only so much access I have as a foreigner. All I know are the basics: locals consider Mayor Vladimir discount car and rentals and toronto Nikolaev a mere figurehead for a, shall we say, non-traditional group of, er, biznesmeni. His nickname is Winnie the Pooh because that's who he looks like -- sleepy eyes, short and roly-poly. It's also rumored that Nikolaev and Primorye Governor Sergei Darkin first met in prison. Nice guys.
Instead, I'll write about what I know (and what will hopefully prevent my body from washing up somewhere near Nakhodka): discount car and rentals and toronto ex-pat culture in Vladivostok. Expats here are public cheerleaders for whatever happens here because their livelihoods depend on corruption that they themselves are often complicit in. Most of them live on western salaries in large, renovated apartments and houses, travel only by taxi, and effectively isolate themselves from real conditions. The most visible expats are only here to exploit business opportunities and suck up to local politicians.
The biggest discount car and rentals and toronto offenders are Martin Tate and Sunil Gandhi, the two top expat businessmen here. Martin is a middle-aged Kiwi with curly, puffy hair and a face that looks like a potato. His most noticeable feature is that he has no sideburns; he shaves them above the parallel of his ears. Sunil is a chunky Indian whom I've had little contact with save one notable incident described below. They're both involved in an array of petty businesses in and around the city, but their business is almost beside the point. These guys are Vlad's expat kings.
discount car and rentals and toronto They conduct themselves about town as public figures. These two-bit foreigners living on the edge of Russia strut around like oligarchs. Sunil once confronted me at a party and insisted that I couldn't write the things discount car and rentals and toronto I was writing. Like a broken record, the fat Indian kept saying, You can't write that over and over, as if the repitition would eventually wear me down. Why not? I can write whatever I want, I told him. No, you can't write that! But why? And he took it from the top.
At least Tate mixed it up a bit. One night, a spitting, slobbering Tate came after me like a wild boar on poppers. He called me a snake, a pussy, a fucking wanker, said I had a cold heart and then a black heart. Things were heading towards a fight before a mutual acquaintance intervened. Martin needs the status discount car and rentals and toronto quo; it's what got him his four-story oceanside house. Despite the fact that I have very little funding and almost no resources to run my magazine, the millionaire Tate nevertheless feels threatened. discount car and rentals and toronto That's how shallow the illusion is.
Last year, Martin and Sunil started discount car and rentals and toronto up a newspaper called The Vladivostok Times, whose sole purpose seems to be kissing up to Governor Darkin, along with promoting all of their sleazy business interests. Tater always has his eyes peeled for photo-ops and press conferences to put Darkin or one of their business-friendly cronies on the cover. One cover story featured Vlad's new architecture; and wouldn't you know it, Martin invests heavily in new architectural projects.
Because of a lack of labor laws, expat colonialist businessmen like Martin and Sunil shamelessly exploit their meagerly-paid staffs. Vladivostokians are used to being exploited, yet they resent foreigners for doing it nonetheless. The expats, on the other hand, operate with the attitude that these people -- the Russians -- should be grateful for whatever crumbs they get.
Even church missionaries in this town belong to this species of expat swine. Rachel Hughes, who is fatter than Buddha, was sent here by a New Zealand church to proselytize on behalf of an emaciated Jesus. She drives around Vladivostok a giant gas-guzzling SUV, yucking it up at all the expensive restaurants and bars, in between her efforts to save the poor and defenseless Russians from sin and hell.
Another guy, who interchangeably calls himself either Victor or Francis, is ostensibly here to promote a children's charity. He's a friend and shady associate of Martin and Sunil, and his main function appears to be a courtier to the Darkins, and Mrs. Darkin's private discount car and rentals and toronto English teacher. Alyona Sokolova, editor of The Vladivostok News, which regularly publishes unintentionally hilarious new stories in English about Vlad and the region, claims that Francis/Victor is a child molester on the run from another country.
The United States discount car and rentals and toronto Consulate in Vladivostok, for their part, treats these characters as part of the family. Consulate General John Mark Pommersheim and his Public Affairs Officer discount car and rentals and toronto Dan Hastings are entirely consumed with trying to make everything appear as normal and positive as possible. I was once invited to a party at Pommersheim's luxurious house. After a brief conversation during which I defended American atheist Michael Newdow -- who had randomly come under assault by a young Russian woman -- in front of Pommersheim, I was quickly ushered out of the party. No atheists allowed in an official residence of George Bush's America.
Hastings never fails to mention his former service in Peace Corps, but these days he lives high on the hog. A lanky Howdy Doody-type from a California suburb, Hastings is always ready with a canned joke, like the time I bumped into him on a tour of a Vlad military fort: I see they've allowed the riffraff to come along, ha ha ha. When I got a death threat from local Nazi skinheads after an article I wrote, Hastings, in all seriousness, advised me to cut down on the number of adjectives in my articles.
Governor Darkin from recently telling Putin about how great things discount car and rentals and toronto are going. He even had the nerve to say there is no water problem in Vlad. Obviously, he considers frequent water blackouts discount car and rentals and toronto (to say nothing of the Russia-wide practice of turning off the hot water for weeks over the summer) to be totally normal. At best, he's clueless. At worse... well, I'll leave that to your imaginations. I don't want to give anyone another reason to threaten me. Because discount car and rentals and toronto when you live this far from civilization, you never know how far people are willing to go to preserve their Potemkin villages.
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